Home | Archives | Sport Climbing | Bouldering | Hollenderan | Blåmann | Winter | Other areas


This is the historical epicenter of Kvaløya climbing. The situation, the walls, the climbing cabin and the air, speaks climbing. Although it might be argued that vertical crack climbing on dead-solid granite is grossly out of date -- you hardly can't beat the feeling of cruising a 50 meter hand crack. And here you find exactly that.

Routes ranges between one to ten pitches (most around five to six). The walls are on average fairly steep, especially the south face of Baugen, where you also can find slightly overhanging passages. Most cracks ranges from finger to hand size. All routes, with a few exceptions, are very well protected.

Zapffetoppen is the top in Hollenderan that is closest to the cabin, easy accessible within 5-10 min.

First Ascent: Peter Wessel Zapffe, M. Mack, 1926. They gained the top via the north-east flank, after walking up Lanternarenna (Normalveien).

Descent: Rap down from the top (1 30 m rappel) to top of Zapfferenna, and follow that gully down (this can be slippery, and be cautious for loose rock). Just after you accessed the gully after the first rappel, you can cross the gully and take two new rappels on the arete (Zapffeegga), each about 20-25 m. Or take the Normalveien back, but be careful in in Lanternarenna.

Routes follows the clear pillar about 200 m left of Zapffeegga. Follow the ledge system left were Zapffeegga is beginning to get steep to gain the base of the pillar. Further left of this obvious pillar there are two routes: Zett vest (Stein Tronstad and Magnar Osnes, March 1992) is a winter route that (almost) follows the large gully just left of the pillar, and beside the next gully there is an easy route named Løst i lag (Stein Tronstad and Lisbeth Indrevik, June 1992).

1. Rett Vest 100 m trad 7- topo
Jørgen Sundby, Bent Svinnung, 1986-08-09
This is a variant of 'Rett Vest', with a more difficult and very technical crux at the beginning of the second pitch.
2. Vesterveg 100 m trad 5+ topo
Bent Svinnung, Arnfinn Myskja and Kristian Flovikholm, 1986-08-02
Excellent climbing for the late climber who wants to enjoy the midnight sun while climbing. Start at the foot of the pillar.
Besides the route Zapffeegga, which follows the south-west pillar to the top, the south face of Zapffetoppen is the wall(s) right of the obvious Zapfferenna. The wall consists of two parts, the lower part is a pillar like obtrusion which contains a number of one-pitch variations. The upper part, Storsvaet, is a gem-like slab wedged upon an overhang giving rise to airy and technical slab climbing at a moderate grade. Framing these routes are two winter routes: Stiv kuling (Sjur Nesheim et al., Feb. 1992), between Zapfferenna De elendige, and Sterk storm (Magnar Osnes and Stein Tronstad, March 1992) which delineates the right side of Storsvaet.

1. Zapffeegga 200 m trad 4 topo
Sjur Nesheim, Wigdis Holen, 1971
Follows the obvious left arete (when seen from the cabin) up to 'Zapffetoppen'.
2. Stiv kuling m trad III-3 topo
Jon Vold, Sam Pedersen, Rune Sundelin, Sjur Nesheim, February 1992
3. De elendige 50 m trad 6- topo
Magnar Osnes, Anne Guri Weiberg Aurdal, June 1983
Best access to Stor Svaet, but also a nice, short, and easy accessible, route in itself. Layback at the crux. Two variants ('svake mennesker') follows the nice formations just right of this route.
4. Venstreruta 50 m trad 4 topo
5. Midtruta 65 m trad 5 topo
Arild Meyer, Magnar Osnes, August 1985
Goes through the middle of Storsvaet, access it via De elendige. Nice exposed technical climbing.
6. Høyreruta 65 m trad 6- topo
7. m topo
8. Meyer/Osnes 50 m trad 6+ topo
Arild Meyer, Magnar Osnes, August 1985
Direct access to Stor Svaet, loose to begin with, steep at top.
9. Sterk storm m trad III-3 topo
Consist of the area between Storsvaet and the chararcteristic yellow steep Kjølsvinet. Top part is split by a long chimney. The lower part is on perfect rock with some splitter cracks. Easy to rappel down after first pitch, so this a perfect short outing if you prefer such. From the top you can return either via Lanternerenna or Zapffeegga.

1. Grisungen 200 m trad 6 topo
2. Perler for svin 200 m trad 6 topo
Bent Svinnung and Stein Tronstad, 1986-08-03
Start with the clearly visible right arching flake, with a triangular block, this pitch is a fine outing in itself. Avoid some loose blocks just right of the roof at the first belay. Steep cracks just below the entrance to the large chimney. Beware of piled blocks inside the chimney.
3. Bananrisset 200 m trad 7- topo
Arild Meyer, Tim Hansen and Ingun Raastad, 1986-07-07
Starts with the obvious long finger crack just to the left of marked arching roof, solid! Crosses 'Perler for svin' at the end of the first pitch, and then continues up steep fingery terrain straight up.

This file was last modified 2008-6-19