This is the historical epicenter of Kvaløya climbing.
The situation, the walls, the climbing cabin and the air, speaks climbing.
Although it might be argued that vertical crack climbing on dead-solid
granite is grossly out of date -- you hardly can't beat the feeling of
cruising a 50 meter hand crack. And here you find exactly that.
Routes ranges between one to ten pitches (most around
five to six). The walls are
on average fairly steep, especially the south face of
Baugen, where
you also can find slightly overhanging passages. Most cracks ranges from
finger to hand size. All routes, with a few exceptions,
are very well protected.
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Styrhuset is the relatively large area to the left of
Baugen, more exactly the winding wall between Lanterna and
Baugenrenna.
The routes here are seldom climbed, but there is a great variety of
of routes from simple to difficult that deserves your visit.
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| 1. |
Tub |
200 m |
trad |
6+ |
topo |
| Arild Meyer and Sjur Nesheim, 1981-08-08 |
| Beautiful and sustained climbing through the middle of the
pillar. 5'th pitch is excellent, and the dihedral - roof combination
of that pitch is easily spotted from ground. |
| 2. |
Astma |
200 m |
trad |
7- |
topo |
| Arild Meyer and Jørgen Sundby, 1988-09-03 |
| Nice route that follows the right rim of the pillar.
The dihedral in 4'th pitch is clearly seen from the start.
Third pitch is a steep and heavy hand crack through a yellow wall,
and the 4'th pitch is a thin finger crack, slightly vegetated.
Bring many small friends and nuts. |
| 3. |
Havblikk |
300 m |
trad |
7- |
topo |
| Magnar Osnes and Bjørn Arntsen, 1988-08-05 |
| Head for the marked crack on the 4'th pitch.
Crux at 5'th pitch can easily be avoided by stepping out to the right.
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| 4. |
Tangotare |
400 m |
trad |
5 |
topo |
| Tom Pedersen and Magnar Osnes, 1980-05-26 |
| Climb towards the slab split by a hand crack at the 3 to
4'th pitch.
Route follows the 'S-lines' towards the slab.
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| 5. |
Nacht und nebel |
400 m |
trad |
5 |
topo |
| Stein Tronstad and Bjørn Arntsen, 1989-08-27 |
| Climbs the profile of Styrhuset, which is easy to spot from the
cabin. Natural with many possible variants. |
| 6. |
Bratt Front |
400 m |
trad |
5 |
topo |
| Jostein Bønes and Sjur Nesheim, 1976-07-02 |
| Starts just right of the clear pillar, not far up
in Baugenrenna. |
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This file was last modified
2008-6-19