This is the historical epicenter of Kvaløya climbing.
The situation, the walls, the climbing cabin and the air, speaks climbing.
Although it might be argued that vertical crack climbing on dead-solid
granite is grossly out of date -- you hardly can't beat the feeling of
cruising a 50 meter hand crack. And here you find exactly that.
Routes ranges between one to ten pitches (most around
five to six). The walls are
on average fairly steep, especially the south face of
Baugen, where
you also can find slightly overhanging passages. Most cracks ranges from
finger to hand size. All routes, with a few exceptions,
are very well protected.
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A nice and solid miniature version of Baugen, with a handful of
routes of the highest quality, mostly around grade 6.
The large central dihedral, which holds the route
Ikaros, is clearly visible. On its left side
goes the route Knoll, and two routes,
Bill and Bull
(Niklas Björnestedt and Dag Kolsrud, 1982), starts
5 and 7 m left of Knoll.
There are remains of some old routes on the backside.
Info:
Continue pass the beginning of Vårrusen
and cross the steep grassy section over to Masta, slippery when whet
(or snowy).
First Ascent: The Department of Mathematics,
at the then newly established University of Tromsø, made
a foray into Hollenderan already in 1972, and established a route
up to the lower top. This was possibly a part of their personnel
management policy, as that department has continued to foster
climbers. Ben Johnsen and Ove Skjerven reached the top in 1975.
Descent: From the top, walk north-east along the
ridge, very soon you'll find a rappel anchor, and a 15 m rappel will
take you down to the (steep) ground.
)
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| 1. |
Knoll |
150 m |
trad |
6- |
topo |
| Børge Østigård, 1981-07-21 |
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Follow the left side of the large central dihedral on the wall.
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| 2. |
Ikaros |
150 m |
trad |
6+ |
topo |
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Climbs the large central dihedral. Joins Knoll at the
finish.
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| 3. |
navnløs |
150 m |
trad |
6+ |
topo |
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| 4. |
Tott |
150 m |
trad |
6 |
topo |
| Børge Østigård, 1981-07-25 |
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Follows the crack system a bit right of the clean face at the center of the
wall, finishes through a right facing dihedral.
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| 5. |
Gro and Kåre |
150 m |
trad |
6 |
topo |
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The routes have a joint start, just left of the
last pitches on Sørpilaren, but then splits with
Kåre going right at the end. If this is a politial message remains
unkown up to this date (FYI, Gro Harlem Brundtland and Kåre Willoch
were two central figures in Norwegian politics in the eighties, whos influence
lingers even today).
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| 6. |
Sørpilaren |
250 m |
trad |
5+ |
topo |
| Jostein Bønes and Ove Skjerven, 1976-06-13 |
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Easiest route on Masta. The climbing up the lower summit can easily be
avoided by walking/scrambling up the gully.
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This file was last modified
2008-6-19