Home | Archives | Sport Climbing | Bouldering | Hollenderan | Blåmann | Winter | Other areas

Hollenderan

This is the historical epicenter of Kvaløya climbing. The situation, the walls, the climbing cabin and the air, speaks climbing. Although it might be argued that vertical crack climbing on dead-solid granite is grossly out of date -- you hardly can't beat the feeling of cruising a 50 meter hand crack. And here you find exactly that.

Routes ranges between one to ten pitches (most around five to six). The walls are on average fairly steep, especially the south face of Baugen, where you also can find slightly overhanging passages. Most cracks ranges from finger to hand size. All routes, with a few exceptions, are very well protected.

Kjølsvinet is the steep yellow pillar that stands proudly not far from the cabin, with a cave at the base. There are not many routes here, and the pillar itself is untouched besides a few attempts. The best return is to continue easy (but loose) terrain up to the summit ridge, and then either go down right via Lanternerenna or left via Zapffeegga.

1. Soltappen 200 m trad III-5 topo
Mårten Blixt and Bjårn Krane, 2000-01-08
Follows the obvious dark streak just left of Kjølsvinet. Thin and poorly protected ice climbing the first two pitches, steep. Once the gully have been reached, the rest of the route is easy snow at moderate angle, except from the very end before accessing the top ridge. Named in the memory of Børge who inspired all of us with his wits and guts.
2. Kundalini 200 m trad A1/A2 topo
Mårten Blixt, 1994-07-02
Follows the large pillar wedged between Soltappen and Kjølsvinet. The dihedral in the second pitch is clearly visible from ground. First ascent was done solo, using aid.
3. Svinestien 200 m trad A2/A3 topo
Magnar Osnes, Ivar Folstad, 1986
Not much information is available about this route, but reading the line it is obviously a steep and probably rather difficult route that follows the wall just above the cave.

This file was last modified 2008-6-19