Hollenderan

From Tromsø, just after you passed Ersfjorden you have two options, either you drive a few km's to Blåmannsvikdalen, or continue to Grøtfjorden, about 15 km's further away.

If you opt for Blåmannsvikdalen you stop the car north of the small river at the very characteristic industry-like facility. Ask the locals where to park the car and follow the dirtroad west in to the Blåmannsvik valley. If you choose to continue, drive nortward and then steeply up to a small lake, after which some serpentines takes you towards the village of Grøtfjorden, dont stop there but continue south now, towards the end of the fjord itself. There is a small parking space alongside the road just before it turns right near the very end of the fjord.

Generally, the path up Blåmannsvikdalen is more pleasant, with a nice walk along the small river up the valley. But it's longer and rather steep at the end. Zapffe concisely described this approach as leading through "enjoyable, but appalling terrain". The Grøtfjord approach is shorter, more intense, and goes almost entirely over very rocky terrain. It will take you 1-2 hours (less than a hour if you know the way, wearing a light backpack). The Tussøya map (1434 II), from Statens kartverk, will be useful. Both paths can be hard to find at times, but it's nearly impossible to end up wrong - all paths leads to Klatre hytta!

From Blåmannsvika you follow the dirt road north of the river for about 200-300 meters, and then you cross it over some huge boulders. Walk up the scree on the other bank, and a footpath will appear. Do NOT try to stick to the north side of the river! it will be nearly impossible to walk through the bushes. If you can't cross the river, return back to the road and follow the south side (no foot path to begin with). It shouldn't be difficult to stay on the path, and after a nice walk you reach a small lake at 273 m above sealevel. Here the path starts disintegrate, but if you go on the north side of the lake, and head almost straight north on the other end of it, you will find a ill-defined path leading your way up steep terrain. You follow a self-evident weakness in the terrain towards the mountains you're about to climb in, so don't despair if you don't find the path - you can't miss it!

From Grøtfjorden you follow a path starting from the road about 50 meters north of the parking lot. The path is very well defined the first 500 meters, but when you reach the rocky terrain it can be difficult to find, which doesn't matter really! Follow the center of the valley over two distinct plateaus, and up the steep final section. You are then on a huge "ledge" leading you southward up towards a saddle in the terrain at about 800 m above sealevel. From the saddle point the increadible south-west face of Baugen unveils itself, and the climbing cabin will be right below your feet.

You find climbing on walls facing south-east to straight west so you can climb in sun from early morning to late night. Baugen south-west face have sun from late morning to late night.

On a sunny day with little wind it can get very hot, so bring lots of water. On the other hand, this is in the arctic mountains, so it is wise to prepared for cold and wet conditions.

double rope, standard trad rack, see the FAQ.

a. Zapffetoppen Zapffetoppen is the top in Hollenderan that is closest to the cabin, easy accessible within 5-10 min. b. Kjølsvinet Kjølsvinet is the steep yellow pillar that stands proudly not far from the cabin, with a cave at the base. There are not many routes here, and the pillar itself is untouched besides a few attempts. The best return is to continue easy (but loose) terrain up to the summit ridge, and then either go down right via Lanternerenna or left via Zapffeegga. c. Lanterna Lanterna is a very distinguishable pointy top tucked away between Kjølsvinet and Styrhuset. The Lanterarenna is the obvious aproach and return gully, which should be treated with respect as it is fairly steep. Bring sturdy shoes when there is snow in the gully. d. Styrhuset Styrhuset is the relatively large area to the left of Baugen, more exactly the winding wall between Lanterna and Baugenrenna. The routes here are seldom climbed, but there is a great variety of of routes from simple to difficult that deserves your visit. e. Baugen This beautiful piece of granite is the main attraction in Hollenderan, The clean-cut steep granite is of world renown quality. Baugen means prow, and you can see its prow like signature on the approach from Blåmannsvika. f. Masta A nice and solid miniature version of Baugen, with a handful of routes of the highest quality, mostly around grade 6. The large central dihedral, which holds the route Ikaros, is clearly visible. On its left side goes the route Knoll, and two routes, Bill and Bull (Niklas Björnestedt and Dag Kolsrud, 1982), starts 5 and 7 m left of Knoll. There are remains of some old routes on the backside. g. Other walls A nice and solid miniature version of Baugen, with a handful of routes of the highest quality, mostly around grade 6. The large central dihedral, which holds the route Ikaros, is clearly visible. On its left side goes the route Knoll, and two routes, Bill and Bull (Niklas Björnestedt and Dag Kolsrud, 1982), starts 5 and 7 m left of Knoll. There are remains of some old routes on the backside.