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This is the historical epicenter of Kvaløya climbing. The situation, the walls, the climbing cabin and the air, speaks climbing. Although it might be argued that vertical crack climbing on dead-solid granite is grossly out of date -- you hardly can't beat the feeling of cruising a 50 meter hand crack. And here you find exactly that.

Routes ranges between one to ten pitches (most around five to six). The walls are on average fairly steep, especially the south face of Baugen, where you also can find slightly overhanging passages. Most cracks ranges from finger to hand size. All routes, with a few exceptions, are very well protected.

This beautiful piece of granite is the main attraction in Hollenderan, The clean-cut steep granite is of world renown quality. Baugen means prow, and you can see its prow like signature on the approach from Blåmannsvika.

First Ascent: Ben Johnsen and Jostein Bønes 1976-5-27, via Vårrusen.

Descent: A solid abseil route (6 pitches), with chain anchors, follows the south-east ridge. Longest abseil is 43 m, and you can easily step off after the fourth abseil and scramble down 4'th grade terrain along the ridge. You can also hike down the gully between Baugen and Styrhuset (south-west), one abseil may be necessary, or walk over the top and head either west (take the Lanterna gully down) or east (head down from Masta, one abseil).

The upper half of the south-west face is characterized by a steep crescent shaped wall; the Halvmånen (half-moon). The routes here are steep and continuous, In the center of the halvmånen you see a very clear left facing dihedral, the skyggediedret (shadow dihedral), which forms the crux on Halvmånerisset. In the long arching dihedral on the right of the Halvmånen goes the route Flygende Hollender. There are at least four old routes to the left of, or partially sharing terrain with, Black pearl (Venstreruta, 100-årsruta, Overbittet, Kniven,...), who are not described here.

1. Grax 250 m trad 7- topo
Håvard and Sjur Nesheim, 1985-07-13
'This is not America, but this is Baugen'.Beginning is shared with 'Ragnarok', but keeps going straight up, and slightly left, where 'Ragnarok' traverses right under the second roof on the third pitch. Continuous nice climbing with increasing difficulty, which culiminates with a nice crux at the'overlappen'.
2. Run Amok 250 m trad 6+ topo
Tim Hansen, Halgeir Nyheim, 1986-08-17
Continuous thin jamming through the left most crack in Halvmånen.
3. Rena Ragnarok 250 m trad 7+ topo
Mårten Blixt, Ø. Andresen, Petter Restorp, June 2000
Free variant of Hans Christian Doseth's Ragnarok (1980-07-24 5 pitches, 5/A2), which avoids the pendelum in to Run Amok and continues through Halvmånen on very thin ground (long fall potential, steep). Third pitch starts with a steep fingery crack, then traverses out right to a psychological crux and ends with a steep section at the very end of Halvmånen - Treasures 60 meter. Bring some small RP's and perhaps a small Alien. Several finger-sized friends are nice to have on the third pitch.
4. Halvmånerisset 250 m trad 6+ topo
Håvard Nesheim, Svein Smelvær, 1978-07-22
(1'st free: Hank Levine, Dag Kolsrud 1979-07-14) Nice straight-up climbing from bottom to top, thin fingery lay-back through the crux.
5. Gemini 250 m trad 7 topo
Dag Kolsrud, Are Mellem, 1982-07-20
Follows the left of two 'twin-cracks' that begins at the bottom of Halvmånen. Sustained crack climbing takes you right and into Halvmånediedret (half-moon dihedral), where it joins Svart Hav for 10 m. Shares the last pitch with Svart Hav, which is one of the best finger crack pitches around.
6. Svart hav 250 m trad 7- topo
Sjur Nesheim, Bent Svinnung, 1981
(1'st free: Hans Chr. Doseth og Tom Pedersen, July 1981) Slightly tuffer mentally than other routes, with bold climbing the first two pitches.
7. Flygende Hollender 250 m trad 6+ topo
Sjur Nesheim, Kjell Skog,
(1'st free: Eva Selin og Anders Lundahl 1982-07-03) Follows the marked dihedral to the right of Halvmånen. Very sustained climbing with a beautiful bold finish, solid for its grade. This is a strongly recommended route.
8. Ikaros 90 m trad 7 topo
Anders Lundahl, Eva Selin, July 1982
Nice variation, a mini version of Thanatos.
9. Dark side of the Moon 90 m trad 6+ topo
Erik Massih, Sofia Sandgren, 2000-07-27
Baugens only whole-hearted chimney.
10. Kairos m trad 8- topo
Erik Massih, Håvard Nesheim, 2003-07-01
Climb Flygande hollender to the bottom of the chimney and then right into the dihedral (7/7+) right of dark side of the moon. Belay at the ledge on top of Thanatos. Climb the double dihedral starting left of the ledge and up through the roofs on the right hand side (8-). Belay on small ledge. easy to top...
11. Thanatos 250 m trad 7+ topo
Håvard Nesheim, Svein Smelvær, Ragnhild Amundsen, Hans Christian Doseth, 1980-07-19
(1'st free: Hans Chr. Doseth, Bjørn Braathen i juli 1981) Impressive 80 m long slightly overhanging hand-jam crack, easily seen just right of Halvmånen.
12. Thanatos Direkte 250 m trad 6+ topo
Mårten Blixt, Bjørn Krane, 2001-08-23
Same start as Krumtappen and then a slab travers left into the very beginning of the Thanatos crack.
13. Krumtappen 250 m trad 6+ topo
Tom Pedersen, Svein Smelvær, Håvard Nesheim, 1980-06-25
(1'st free: Hans Chr. Doseth, Per Markestad July 1981). 5 pitches, Nice steep climbing through some fantastic terrain at the top.
Not so steep as the south-west face, but the same impeccable continuous climbing.

1. Ballongsnoppen 250 m trad 6+ topo
Mårten Blixt, Ø. Andresen, 2002-06-30
Trad climbing in sport apparel!, 3'd pitch negotiates unlikely yellow wall on jugs. Route ends dead blank 30 m below the top, and one need to traverse right in to Alexis/Alekos.
2. Alekos 250 m trad 7- topo
Hans Christian Doseth, Ragnhild Amundsen, July 1981
Solid layback in left leaning dihedral on third pitch (easily seen from below). Originally the route starts to the left of Alexis, but the Alexis start is very nice.
3. Alexis 250 m trad 6+ topo
Arild Meyer, Magnar Osnes, 1985-08-21
Nice from the first meter, third pitch through the left leaning Bølgediedret ('wavy-dihedral') is extraordinary, save a nr. 1 cam to the finish of that dihedral.
4. Silhuetten 250 m trad 6+ topo
Ben Johnsen, Ove Skjerven, 1977-07-8
(1's free: Hank Levine, Dag Kolsrud 1979-07-15) The layback pass Trekanttaket is powerful, and the absolutely classic hand jam crack, 40m-risset, is a must. This is the classic Baugen route.
5. Bastillen 250 m trad 6 topo
Synne Øien Stensland, Sofia Sandgren, Erik Massih, Mårten Blixt, 2000-07-23
Parallel to Silhuetten, circumvents Trekanttaket to the right, through some small overhangs. 3'rd pitch follows an obvious crack to the right of 40m-risset with a cruxy finish. Climb carefully pass the Giljotinen, hollow-sounding thin flake, on the fourth pitch.
6. Baugsprydet 250 m trad 6-/6 topo
Børge Østigård, Øyvind Spjelkavik, 1981-07-18
Very nice, slightly easier than other routes on the left.
7. Mannen med ljåen 250 m trad 6+ topo
Hank Levine, Dag Kolsrud, 1979-07-17
Brute Æsthetic line through the scythe formed dihedral, Ljåen. Bring some 3 and 4 cams for the Man with the Scythe. The second pitch is an absolutely fantastic shallow finger crack.
Here you can find the easiest routes on Baugen. Vårrusen was the first route in Hollenderan, climbed in 1976, and still provides a good outing, and Stjernedans is by many considered the best relatively easy route in Hollenderan. Follow the base of the cliff as it turns left and walk up the rather steep gully. Be very careful when there still is snow. From the notch, with a good view over Masta, either tie in or continue with some scrambling to reach the routes.

1. Stjernedans 150 m trad 6- topo
Sjur Nesheim, Espen Prestbakmo,
Starts on left side of the ledge (on the south face really) where Vårrusen begins. 4'th grade scrambling up to the start. After the second pitch you cross over from the south- to the east-face, where you follow the right most crack through the slab. Thin delicate climbing.
2. Gallionsruta 250 m trad 5+ topo
Johnny Lauritzen, Sjur Nesheim, June 1978
Follows the right edge of the south face, the abseil route follows this line approximately.
3. Kalkrusen 150 m trad ? topo
4. Vårrusen 150 m trad 5- topo
Jostein Bønes, Ben Johnsen, 1976-06-27
First route up Baugen. Start at the characteristic block split in two with a chockstone in the crack. To gain the start to have to some 4'th grade scrambling up the ridge for about 70 meters.

This file was last modified 2008-6-19