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Gullknausen

Gullknausen is undoubtly the jewel in the crown of crags on Kvaløya, its main face is about 70 high, from vertical to very steep. The granite is a bit different from the other crags, and most routes involves technical non-straight-forward moves. Most routes are bolted, but there are a few trad routes too.
The main wall has three faces, the "Karatveggen" to the left, the dominating "Brattveggen" as the steep center piece, and "Brosmeveggen" around the corner to the right.

1. Platina baren 25 m 12 bolts 5+
Bettina Aasnæs, 2003
2. Fransk åpning 30 m 8 bolts 6
Leif-Henning Broch Johnsen, 1997
3. Kontinentalsprekken 30 m trad 5
Svein Smelvær, 1997
4. 18 karat 30 m 11 bolts 6
Svein Smelvær, Ben Johnsen, 1997
5. Gullrushet 30 m trad 5+
Svein Smelvær, Roy Inge Hansen, 1997
6. Gyllene tider 30 m trad 7-
Mårten Blixt, 2003
You might take stand in the last roof, and divide the pitch into two. One rappel takes you down to ledge at start.
7. Vertigo 20 m bolted 7
Ø. Andresen, 2006
Open project.
8. Gull-Iver 20 m 6+
Ø. Andresen, 2006
Project! Warning, some large flakes below the belay are loose and unsafe at the time of printing.
9. Goldfinger 20 m bolted 9-
Ø. Andresen, 2006
Project!
1. Det Gyldne Snitt 30 m 10 bolts 8-/8
Ø. Andresen, 2005-08-12
Venstre-variant av Golden Shower. Fiiiint snitt..
2. Golden Shower 30 m 10 bolts 8
Ø. Andresen, 2005-08-12
Linja til venstre for Astronaut. Kanskje Kvaløyas fineste åtter.
3. Naut eller Astronaut 29 m 12 bolts 8
Ø. Andresen, 2005-06-28
4. Man or astroman 30 m trad 8
Mårten Blixt, July, 2004
5. Man and Astroman 20 m trad ?
Project! Lengthy second pitch of Man or Astroman.
6. Eldorado 35 m bolted 9-
Ø. Andresen, 2006
Project! Notice, 35 m long!
7. Fidel 30 m bolted 9-
Erik Massih, Leif Henning Broch Johnsen, 2000
8. Fidel II 35 m bolted 9-
Ø. Andresen, 2006
Project! Long and hard second pitch.
1. Akantus 25 m bolted 7+
Leif Henning Broch Johnsen, 1997
2. Akantus II 30 m bolted 7+/8-
Ø. Andresen, 2006
Project! second pitch.
3. Brosmelina 30 m 10 bolts 8-
Gisle Andersen, 1997
4. Flikkflak 100 m 12 bolts/pitch 6+
Leif Henning Broch Johnsen, Roy Inge Hansen, 1997
Three pitches; 6+,6-,5. By many considered the best 6+ around (in Norway, Europe, and even on...)
5. Araber flikkflak 30 m 12 bolts 6+
Ø. Andresen, 2003
(toprope: Ragnar Soleng, Svein Smelvær, 1997)

This file was last modified 2008-6-19