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Gullknausen

Gullknausen is undoubtly the jewel in the crown of crags on Kvaløya, its main face is about 70 high, from vertical to very steep. The granite is a bit different from the other crags, and most routes involves technical non-straight-forward moves. Most routes are bolted, but there are a few trad routes too.
Drive towards Grøtfjordklumpan, but continue to Tromvik, there you take left in the crossing and head for Rekvik. A few kilometers after Tromvik, at the top of the hill, there is a parking lot on the right side of the road. It will take almost an hour.
Follow the path only 100 m or so, then head right over the marsh, towards the valley between two distinct small mountains (Brosmetind and Sørtind). There is no well defined path, but it is not a difficult walk. About 50 min walking.
The walls faces west and north-west, so it is an afternoon/evening crag, The midnight sun provides a unique feel to the place. There is usually some seepage from melting snow early in the season on the steepest face (Brattveggen), but you can usually climb most of the routes despite this. Because of the steepness, many of the routes are climbable even in rain.
A 60 m rope, 14 quickdraws, and a standard trad rack if you want test the trad routes.
There is water in the small lake just before you come to the crag, it is fairly still water but none of us have become sick from it.

On the approach you will pass Den ensomme stein, which has some very nice boulder problems.

a. Gullknausen
The main wall has three faces, the "Karatveggen" to the left, the dominating "Brattveggen" as the steep center piece, and "Brosmeveggen" around the corner to the right.

This file was last modified 2007-5-11