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Grøtfjordklumpan

Grøtfjordklumpan is one of the very classic climbing areas on Kvaløya. Opened already in 1980 by the Nesheim brothers and Arild Meyer. It came in vouge when Christian Korvald and Jørgen Sundby bolted the first sport routes on Kvaløya here in 1990. Most of the routes are re-equipped now, and you find some very nice vertical and technical sport routes here. But there are also some easy and well protected trad routes left, and it is a very good place to start you trad career.
The lower part of the crag, clearly seen from the road. The smaller Vestveggen, on the left, and Camel and Cornflakes-veggen on the right, surrounds the main wall itself.

The large wall facing the sea. Most routes starts up on the ledge, were you need to be careful not to fall down or drop your stuff.

1. Energi mot apati 50 m trad 6
Arild Meyer and Sjur Nesheim, 1982
One of the three classic trad lines on this crag.
2. Fett konsept 10 m 6 bolts 7/7+
Leif Henning Broch Johnsen, 1991
Originally graded 8-, it was the first route on Kvaløya of the grade 8.
3. Overhengende fare 20 m 6 bolts 6-
Ben Johnsen, 1991
4. Balletmester Andersens likkiste 20 m 8 bolts 7
Einar Broch Johnsen and Leif Henning Broch Johnsen, 1991
Beautiful and technical route.
5. Piruett på kistelokket 20 m 6 bolts 7-
Einar Broch Johnsen and Leif Henning Broch Johnsen, 1992-06-06
6. God must be a Boogieman 50 m trad 6-
Nesheim??, 1980
Another of the three classic trad lines.
7. Giv alt 35 m mix 6+
Einar Broch Johnsen and Leif Henning Broch Johnsen, 1991
Psycho start but elegant climbing!
8. Giv akt! 35 m trad 6
Håvard Nesheim, 1981
The best of the three classic trad lines, with a tricky start.
9. Meyer/Hansen 25 m trad 7-
Arild Meyer and Tim Hansen, 1980
Fabulous route up the clearly visible right-leaning dihedral. Technical and thin start leads the way to a heavenly lay-back and two brute short overhangs. The bolt at the beginning was not there during the first ascent, the responsible scapegoat is unknown, but today we bless the bolt (although it is about time to remove/replace it!).
10. Christians testamente 25 m trad 7-
Christian Korvald, 1991
11. Gje Faen 25 m trad 6-
Arild Meyer and Sjur Nesheim, 1981
A classic trad route, Friends makes the protection easier to place.
Westfacing small wall on the left, sun until 21.

1. West side glory 15 m mix 6
Christian Korvald, 1991
2. Beste vestkant 15 m trad 6
Christian Korvald, 1991
Right of the main wall, accessed from the ledge of from below via Camelveggen. Vertical climbing on good holds.

1. Crispi 25 m bolted 6-
Christian Korvald and Jørgen Sundby, 1990
2. Cornflakes 25 m 8 bolts 6
Christian Korvald and Jørgen Sundby, 1990
3. Streng diett 25 m 7 bolts 6+
Einar Broch Johnsen and Leif Henning Broch Johnsen, 1991
Right of the main wall, accessed from the ground. Elegant and technical climbing, photogenic.

1. Camel uten 15 m 8 bolts 6+
Christian Korvald and Jørgen Sundby, 1990
2. Røykfri sone 15 m 8 bolts 7
Dag Brattli, 1996
3. Hoffmeister Jr. 15 m trad 6-
Christian Korvald and Jørgen Sundby, 1990
4. Camel med 15 m 8 bolts 6
Christian Korvald and Jørgen Sundby, 1990
5. Amadrillo 20 m bolted 6-
Christian Korvald and Jørgen Sundby, 1990
Grøtfjordklumpans only slab route.
Consists of several smaller crags.

Miscellaneous trad climbs of grade around 5+. Not covered in this edition!

The right part of the wall is divided in half by a large ledge.

1. Eggerøra 15 m top rope 6+
The Johnsen family crew, 1991
2. Triathlon 25 m trad 5+
TKK, 1991
Variant to the right of bolt makes it a 6-. This route was used for the 1991 speed climbing competition. Svein Smelvæ won using only 19 s.
3. Siste utvei 25 m trad 6+
Leif Henning Broch Johnsen, 1991
Nice obvious crack to the right of dark off-width.
4. Siste skrik 25 m 12 bolts 8-
Leif Henning Broch Johnsen, 1991
Beautiful fingery and technical route with a powery move through initial overhang. Impressive route delivered by the then only 17 year old Leif Henning.
5. Det springende punkt 15 m 8 bolts 7+
Leif Henning Broch Johnsen, 1991
6. Tøffelhelten 15 m 6 bolts 7+
Leif Henning Broch Johnsen, 1991
Classic
7. Frekk strekk 15 m 5 bolts 7+
Leif Henning Broch Johnsen, 1991-05-17
Thin, technical and strenuous without a single break.
8. Høyre sprekk 15 m trad 6+
Einar Broch Johnsen and Leif Henning Broch Johnsen, 1991
Demanding crack climbing.
9. Søylegangen 15 m trad 4+
The Johnsen family crew, 1991
10. Akropolis 15 m 8 bolts 7-
Einar Broch Johnsen and Leif Henning Broch Johnsen, 1992
Steep and popular.
11. På skråplanet 15 m mix 6-
Leif Henning Broch Johnsen, 1991
Variant with direct start around the corner to the left by Halgeir Nyheim, 6+.
12. Vertikalplanet 15 m 8 bolts 7
Leif Henning Broch Johnsen, 1991
Technical and elegant.
13. Gammeldans 20 m 4 bolts 5+
Ben Johnsen, 1991
14. Klegg 15 m top rope 7-
Einar Broch Johnsen, 1992
15. Helsprø 15 m 5 bolts 6+
Einar Broch Johnsen and Leif Henning Broch Johnsen, 1991
Popular classic.
16. Halvsprø 15 m top rope 5+
Einar Broch Johnsen and Leif Henning Broch Johnsen, 1991
Often wet.
Nice collection of easy routes.

1. Debut 12 m trad 4+
The Johnsen family crew, 1971-01-01
2. Første klasse 12 m trad 5+
The Johnsen family crew, 1971-01-01
3. Utsatt prøve 12 m mix 6-
The Johnsen family crew, 1971-01-01
Direct finish to the right, grade 7-.
4. Eksamensrisset 12 m mix 6-
The Johnsen family crew, 1971-01-01
Three small walls with some fun climbing.

1. Den hvite eggen 10 m top rope ?
The Johnsen family crew, 1991
2. Det glatte lag 10 m top rope 6
The Johnsen family crew, 1991
3. Taukuttern 10 m top rope 6+
The Johnsen family crew, 1991
4. Rett opp 10 m top rope 5+
Svein Smelvær and Ben Johnsen, 1991
5. Rock and Roll 10 m top rope 6
Svein Smelvær and Ben Johnsen, 1991
6. Høyre vridd 10 m top rope 7-
Svein Smelvær and Ben Johnsen, 1991

This file was last modified 2008-6-19