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Grøtfjorden

Squeezed in between the steep mountains and the sea goes the road through Grøtfjorden, this gives this alpine playground, uniquely short and easy approaches. Most of the routes described here are winter routes, with a few exceptions, and the potential for new routes is huge. Characteristic for the winter climbing here are moderately steep sections on alpine ice and snow, with some sparse sections of really steep rock and ice (mix). In between you find snow covered sections of modest steepness. The seriousity of the routes varies according the conditions, wether the ice is thick enough to take ice screws, wether the snow is avalanche prone, and etc. The rock you find is of very high quality, and takes good protection unless it is covered in ice.
Nonstind is the mountain on the north-western tip of Grøtfjorden, almost split up in two by the characterstic Helvetesveita.

Info:
Descent:: Safest way is either down the backside of the mountain - walk towards north-west, or down Nordegga, the northern ridge, with one rappel.

1. Mitt savns tynne linje 200 m trad, ice/snow IV-5/A2
Mårten Blixt and Bjarte Skille, 1998
Starts up the dark overhanging wall slightly to the right of the hanging gully. One pitch of hard aid (bolted belay). Second pitch traverses left and up on thin unprotected alpine ice, then the route eases off and continues straight up the gully. Probably one of the most serious winter routes on Kvaløya.
2. Helvetesveita 600 m trad, ice/snow 60-70°
Sjur Nesheim and Geir Bjørnar Jensen, 1981-01-26
Takes the distinct gully in the middle of the east face, but avoids the last steep section by heading right at the end. The bottom part of the gully is just a steep walk (the most part of the route was skied down by Mårten Blixt and Kjetil Longva in 1998), and the first ascentionists only roped up the last five pitches. Finish with snow flank to the right.
3. Osnesrenna 600 m trad, ice/snow III-2
Edly Grape and Frode Guldal, 1981-02-14
Starts in the rightmost of two distinctive thin gullies in lower part of the east face, then follows the obvious left leaning gully all the way up to the ridge. The gully is on the average about 50° steep, but there are several steep but short sections underways.
4. Nordegga 400 m trad, ice/mix III-2
Magnar Osnes,
Easy scrambling/climbing up the north ridge. Usually used as a descent route, which involves a 40 m rappel.
Grøtfjordryggen extends northwards from the top of Store Hollenderan, and Øvre Grøtfjordryggen is the upper steep and clean wall on this ridge. On its right side you find the deep and steep descent gully.

1. Osnes/Blixt 200 m trad, ice/mix III-3
Magnar Osnes and Mårten Blixt, 1994
Takes one of the clear lines in the snow covered and icy wall to the right of the more homogeneous and steep wall just below the top of Store Hollenderan. Steep alpine ice to begin with, then it follows a more classic snowy gully up to the ridge.
2. Mørk dame tatt bakfra 200 m trad, ice/mix III-4
Bjørn Krane and Mårten Blixt, 2002-03-10
Steep and nice line up the ruling left facing dihedral, not so much ice.
Tårnpilaren is the characteristic tower like arete that protrudes from Grøtfjordryggen. The upper part is as steep as it looks, and provides airy climbing with both attitude and view. The approach is hazardous. If it is dry, stay far left for the best line.

1. Tårnpilaren direkte 400 m trad 5+
Magnar Osnes and Håvard Nesheim, 1980-06-15
Starts to the right, on the same ledge, of Tårnpilaren, and the two crosses at the beginning of the steep section at the top. It then goes out left in the dihedral and climbs an airy line to the top.
2. Tårnpilaren 400 m trad 5
Sjur Nesheim and Ove Skjerven, 1978-07-01
Climbs the dominant rock pillar from a grassy ledge about 300 m up. Moderate steepness to begin with, but the final third of the route rises steep and airy. Beautiful climbing. The approach, about 1/2 - 1 hour, takes the rather exposed and wet line to the left of the stream.
3. Hvit dame tatt av gribben 450 m trad, ice/mix III-5
Edly Grape and Ivar Olsen, 1983
Original route starts far right on same ledge as Tårnpilaren, and follows a clear, thin and steep couloir that sweeps gently right. The original route finishes of by traversing right on a snow flank a few pitches below the top, and thereby avoiding the steepest section. The direct line, bottom to top, was climbed by Øystein Cruikshank and Mårten Blixt in 1996, and is a bold and beatutiful route with exposed climbing through the exit chimney/corner system.
4. m
The main wall of Grøtfjordryggen surrounds a steep bowl of snow. The wall is moderately steep and all routes except from Frodor are fairly easy. Please treat the bowl of snow with respect as a fair amount of avalanches are produced there. both attitude and view.

1. The Meyer/Sundby start 500 m trad, ice/mix III-3
Arild Meyer and Jørgen Sundby, 1991
Alternative start to Rune/Sjurs, for winters when there is little snow and ice.
2. Rune/Sjurs 500 m trad, ice/mix III-3
Sjur Nesheim and Rune Myreng, 1987
Usually the most easily recognizable line up to the snow flank.
3. Orignallinja 500 m trad, ice/mix III-3
Sjur Nesheim and Svein Smelvær, 1980-03-28
Easy but varied route with elements of thin gullies, snow and steep ice.
4. Enevold/Kummeneje 500 m trad, ice/mix III-3
Torbjørn Enevold and Anni Kummeneje, 1988
5. Frodor 500 m trad, ice/mix III-4
Frode Guldal and Håvard Nesheim, 1980
6. Lille havhesten 300 m trad, ice/mix III-4, 85°
Arild Meyer and Stein Tronstad, 1991-02-19
Begins in the leftmost of three gullies at the far right side of the wall. Travers left over snowfield and in to a steeper narrow gully that leads to the snowflank under the ridge top. Steep snow at the end.
The rightmost and more prominent of two rock pillars (thereby the name Hugin and Munin, who were the two ravens of the norse god Odin) that guards the end of the fjord, with a characteristic overhanging wall facing north-west.

Info:
Descent: Safest way is to go east, behind the neighbouring pillar Hugin, and down the steep slope at the foot of Vågstind. But it is possible to walk down directly left or right of the pillar too, but be aware of the risk for avalanches.

1. Waage/Albrigtsen 200 m trad, ice/mix III-3
Kjell Gunnar Albrigtsen and Trond Waage, 1988
Up slanting ledge to the wall on the left side, from there ...
2. Nesheim/Scott 200 m trad, ice/mix III-4
Sjur Nesheim and Doug Scott, 1998
You were reading right, Doug Scott teamed up with our local hero Sjur Nesheim to bag this first ascent. Up slanting ledge to the wall on the left side, from there ....
3. Hårek 250 m trad, ice/mix III-3
Arild Meyer and Geir Tore Tobiassen, 1988-01-14
The true classic Grøtfjord test piece, a must for the aspiring alpinist. Starts with a full pitch of 70-80° alpine ice in the middle of the wall that ends on a snowy ramp leading left. The final pitch is on the slab to the right of the direct line, thin ice that usually takes scarce protection. The apt description by the first ascentionists is very true: surpringsly beautiful! .
The leftmost of the two rock pillars, less dramatic and inspiring than its sibling, but still contains a fair lot of climbing.

Info:
Same descent as Munin. Behind the top, there are some good short ice climbs by the small lake.

1. Nesheim/Albrigtsen 150 m trad, ice/mix III-2
Sjur Nesheim and Kjell Gunnar Albrigtsen, 1998
Follows the gully in the left side of the wall.
2. Radetzkyrenna 150 m trad, ice/mix III-3
Arild Meyer and Stein Tronstad, 1991-01-01
Start by circumventing a roof (sometimes carrying an icicle) on the left side, then up on 40-50° snow with some short steeper sections. Finish through narrow gully with vertical climbing sequences.
Prominent mountain overlooking the approach to Hollenderan. The 400 m north facing wall holds the promise of future hard alpine climbing, as the established routes circumvents the proper wall.

Info:
Descent: from the top, walk eastwards but instead of following the ridge over to Styrmannstind turn left down the snow cirque that brings you back to the foot of the climb.

1. Barske glæder 400 m trad, ice/mix III-3
Anne and Arild Meyer, 1989-04-02
Start on the left side of the wall in a narrow gully to the right of the large gorge. Travers right 2 pitches then up on moderately steep alpine ice and snow. The climbing then steepens (70-80°) and gets narrower. Then travers slightly rights on a large ledge and enter a gully leading to the top.
2. Ormen Lange 400 m trad, ice/mix III-3
M&rten Blixt and Geir Harang, 1995
Outlines the right side of the main north face. Traverse left on a ledge midways up the wall, and then heads slightly right over steep bulge and thin alpine ice (crux). Follows the ridge to the top. Easy climbing in moderate terrain with one difficult section.
3. Midnattsolveggen m trad
Arild Meyer,
Surprisingly, just as its name says this wall only gets sun during a few hours in the heat of the summer night. A collection of 50-150 m long trad routes with some excellent and steep cracks. Seldomly climbed because of their grade (around 6 and 7), and the approach.
Breitind is less steep and sees more sun than the other walls in Grøtfjorden, and its faces are bursting with meandering gullies and rock spires that invites to easier alpine climbing and hazardous ski descents.

Info:
Descent: either use one of the gullies in the south face (no rappels are needed), or walk down the backside and then towards Grøtfjordklumpan (long!).

1. Tjugofem m trad, ice/mix III-3
Marked S-shaped gully in the left side of the wall, easy climbing on moderately steep snow. The final part along the ridge towards the top requires roped climbing.
2. Maskerade 600 m trad, ice/mix III-3
Arild Meyer and Stein Tronstad, 1992-02-09
Some steep and short sections in the beginning, then the route goes slightly right were the main gully turns left.
3. Nifserenna 600 m trad, ice/mix III-3
Christian Korvald and Magnar Osnes, 1991, February
Parallel to the Osnes/Enevold route, but steeper and harder.
4. Osnes/Enevold 600 m trad, ice/mix III-3
Magnar Osnes and Torbjørn Enevold, 1988
Follows the rightmost of three gullies to the left of the main pillar. Easy climbing on snow and some alpine ice.
5. Ormen Lange 600 m trad, ice/mix III-2
Marit Hetland and Stein Tronstad, 1989, March
6. Orvasskaret 300 m trad, ice/mix III-3
A collection of summer and winter routes are gathered around the col between Breitind and Zapffetoppen. Furthest east is a short steep ice wall that continues in a gully to the top. The ridge itself provides nice climbing.
On display above the nr 1 beach on Kvaløya is the steep side of Smørstabben. Two cave-like recessions are clear signatures of the rock quality being a lot worse here, and over the rightmost recession a small stream of water pours down. The stream forms a huge free-standing icicle during some winters.

Info:
Descent: once up, walk eastward over the mountain and head toward the road along the birch covered ridge.

1. Smørstabbfossen 200 m ice III-6
Mårten Blixt and Tony Johannessen, 1995
The icicle seldomly forms, and rumours say that the most eager ice climbers used to hang ropes in the stream to help the ice to form - but never succeeded. 60 m freestanding steep ice. The icicle was broken halfway during the first ascent, and the lower part had leaned towards back wall during the second ascent (Børge Solbakk and Kurt Kaspersen).

This file was last modified 2008-6-19