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Ersfjorden

Ersfjorden provides a great diversity of sport climbing (some trad climbs), mostly on a group of huge boulders (up to 30 m). The quality of the granite is excellent, and you find anything from the most technical slabs to 45 degree overhanging jug feasts. The area was developed by the Broch Johnsen family together with Svein Smelvær and Ragnar Soleng in search for more challanging routes.
Ura means scree, and you'll notice why when you search for the routes in this maze of huge boulders. There are possibilities for climbing everywhere, but it is not appropriate on your first visit. The area contains most of the latest additions to the Ersfjord climbing scene, but the routes are generally shorter and more boulder-like in nature compared to the other sectors in Ersfjorden.

This boulder lies just beneath Resekjerringa as serve well as a detour from the ultra classic Dingel Dangel. Short routes with crimpy and technical goodies.

1. Den fingerferdige 12 m bolted 7+
Johnsen/Smelvær (toprope), bolted by Ø. Andresen 2004,
2. Opprørsbevegelsen 12 m bolted 7+
Johnsen/Smelvær,
3. Halv pensjon 12 m bolted 7
Johnsen/Smelvær,
This characteristically shaped two-piece boulder lies along the approach path. It is still unknown what substances led the first-ascentionist to set their focus on this boulder, but the result are two powerful routes which are fun at the end of day.

1. Scheisse Bella 6 m 4 bolts 8/8+
Ø. Andresen and Holger Keilholz, June 2004
2. Lapsang sousjong 5 m 3 bolts 7-
Petter Restorp, 1999
During Holger Keilholz's stay in Tromsø he made a large effort in creating new hard routes -- to raise the bar an inch. On Trekantblokka he found several projects who were too hard at the time. How long will they stand, and if these are contenders to the "hardest routes on Kvaløya" remains open.

1. open project m bolted ?
Holger Keilholz,
Open project.
2. open project m bolted ?
Holger Keilholz,
Open project.
3. Akkar i Ersfjord 12 m bolted 8-
Holger Keilholz, April 2004
4. Nabo til Akkar 10 m trad 5
Holger Keilholz, May 2004
1. Homer Simpson 10 m 5 bolts 7+
Holger Keilholz, 2005-06-19
Very athletic.
A large boulder with a large nose pointing towards the village. The routes crosses eachother which opens up the possibilites for endless variations.

1. open project 10 m bolted
Holger keilholz,
2. Periferi 10 m bolted 7-
Holger keilholz, 2005
3. Uten å gå på do 10 m bolted 6+
Holger keilholz, 2005
4. Fransk do 10 m bolted 7+
Holger keilholz, 2005
5. Schoenheit im Minutentakt 10 m 7 bolts 8
Holger keilholz, 2005-06-19
Short route, lots of climbing.
This large boulder lies far down in the scree, not far from the little stream, and contains a set of cracks that sweeps sideways and up under an overhang. The route had seen several attempts before Øystein joined in -- and he was convinced to do it. It took him a long, cold and lonely autumn in Ersfjord before the task was over. Never before had a route of this class been climbed so late in the season. Free climbing in December as a sport on Kvaløya was invented by Øystein.

1. Venuspassasjen XXX m Crash pad 9-
Ø. Andresen, 2005-12-23
What's the difference between a route and a boulder problem? Is it simply the total number of moves? Their intensity? Or the question of using rope or not? To me, the answer is obvious. As long as the redpoint ascent comes down to stamina and not pure power, it is no longer considered as a boulder problem.

Øystein Andresen.

The main huge boulder that is clearly visible from the approach trail.

1. Steinbiten 20 m 7 bolts 8/8+
Leif Henning Broch Johnsen, 1993
2. Skråkaminen 15 m toprope 6
3. Skråeggen 15 m toprope 7+
Leif Henning Broch Johnsen, 1993
4. Månesyke 25 m 10 bolts 8
Leif Henning Broch Johnsen, 1993
5. Sigden og hammaren 25 m 10 bolts 8-
Leif Henning Broch Johnsen, 1993
6. Dingel Dangel 25 m 11 bolts 7-
Einar and Leif Henning Broch Johnsen, 1993
7. Dingel Dangel variant m 8-/8
Leif Henning Broch Johnsen (toprope), 1995
Variant that avoids the niche. Bolted in 2004 by Ø. Andresen.
8. Ramadan 15 m 7 bolts 9-
Leif Henning Broch Johnsen, 1997
9. Buestrengen 15 m 6 bolts 7-
Leif Henning Broch Johnsen, 1992
Classic variant straight up the crack at the end, 7+.
10. In deliri flagrante 25 m 10 bolts 8
Leif Henning Broch Johnsen, 1992
11. Ulkeløypa 25 m 10 bolts 8-/8
Leif Henning Broch Johnsen, 2002
12. Armveiks siste fristelse 25 m 10 bolts 8+
Leif Henning Broch Johnsen, 1993
1. Whipper deluxe 15 m 5 bolts 7-
Jimmy Halvardsson, 2005-05-10
2. Snøballskrig 12 m 5 bolts 6+
Jimmy Halvardsson, 2005-05-15
Ruta lengst til venstre i bakfickan. When in doubt run it out..
3. Panoramasvaet 15 m 5 bolts 6+
Einar and Leif Henning Broch Johnsen, 1993
4. Gravitasjonslinsen 15 m trad 7-
Ø. Andresen, 2000
1. Ravnens flukt 20 m 7 bolts 7+/8-
Einar and Leif Henning Broch Johnsen, 1993
2. Ravnereiret 30 m 10 bolts 6
Einar and Leif Henning Broch Johnsen, 1993
3. Fallinjen 25 m 8 bolts 7+
Leif Henning Broch Johnsen, 1997
4. Slamtorsken 20 m trad 7+
Leif Henning Broch Johnsen, Erik Nordby, 2000
5. Noburo Wataya 25 m trad 5+
Leif Henning Broch Johnsen, Erik Nordby, 2000
6. Riddu Riddu 20 m bolted 9-
Leif Henning Broch Johnsen, June 2004
7. Infinita Tristeza 25 m 10 bolts 7+
Mårten Blixt, 2001
8. Rettferd for taperne 12 m 8 bolts 7/7+
Jørgen Drangfelt, Ø. Andresen, 2000
The thin and high boulder just behind Resekjerringa.

1. Bremsklossen 15 m trad 6
Halgeir Nyheim, 1992
2. Granitveien 15 m 7 bolts 6-
Einar and Leif Henning Broch Johnsen, 1993
3. Vindeltrappen 20 m 9 bolts 7-
Leif Henning Broch Johnsen, 1993
4. Seidmannen 20 m 9 bolts 8-/8
Leif Henning Broch Johnsen, 1993
5. Sjamanen 20 m 8 bolts 8-
Leif Henning Broch Johnsen, 1992
6. Moctezumas hevn 20 m 8 bolts 8-
Leif Henning Broch Johnsen, 1993
7. Dvergmål 20 m 7 bolts 8+
Leif Henning Broch Johnsen, 1993
1. Psilocin 15 m 7 bolts 7/7+
Leif Henning Broch Johnsen, 1993
2. Crack til folket 15 m trad 7-
Leif Henning Broch Johnsen, 1993
3. Insulin 25 m 12 bolts 7
Mårten Blixt, 2003
1. Sekspress 20 m 10 bolts 6+
Ben Johnsen, 1996
2. Dagdrøm 15 m 7 bolts 7
Dag Brattli,
3. Sjarmøren 12 m 8 bolts 6-
Einar Broch Johnsen, 1991
4. Skårungen 12 m 7 bolts 5
5. Førstereisegutten 12 m 7 bolts 5-
6. På skråss 15 m 6 bolts 5
Ø. Andresen, 2003
7. Snørrungen 6 m 5 bolts 4+
8. Rekrutten 10 m 6 bolts 5
Apart from Vestresvaet, this sectors holds Rainman, Kjøleskapet and Tunga.

1. Cheerio 25 m 11 bolts 8-/8
St.Thomas, 2005-08-08
2. Insomnia 22 m 9 bolts 8-
Ø. Andresen, 2005-05-25
A classic line that has given (and will continue to give) the first ascender many sleepless nights...
3. På kanten av stupet 30 m 12 bolts 6+
Einar, Leif Henning Broch Johnsen, 1993
4. Via Tony 30 m 11 bolts 7+
Mårten Blixt, 2003
5. open project 30 m bolted ?
Holger Keilholz,
Open project.
6. Fluenes herre 30 m 12 bolts 6
Ragnar Soleng, Ben Johnsen, 1993
7. Dagsverk 30 m 12 bolts 6-
Harald Dag Jølle, 1999
1. Rainman 55 m trad 7+
Mårten Blixt and Tony Johannessen, 1995
Two pitches; 6, 7+.
1. La ligne noire 12 m trad 7
Mårten Blixt, 2001
2. open project 20 m bolted ?
Ø. Andresen,
3. Orange méchanique 12 m 8 bolts 7/7+
Ø. Andresen, 2000
1. Turistklasse 10 m 6 bolts 6+
Audun Igesund, 1999
2. Leppa 10 m 6 bolts 8-
Audun Igesund, 1999
3. Tungebåndet 12 m 8 bolts 8/8+
Leif Henning Broch Johnsen, Audun Igesund, 1999
4. Liftarens guide till galaxen 20 m 12 bolts 8+
Eirik B Olsen, 2006-08-09
Long beautiful travers with very bouldery start. Use two ropes, unclip the first after second bolt to avoid ropedrag.
This sector is at the very top of the Ersfjord area. It consists of Toppsvaet, Vakttårnet, Klokketårnet and the newly established Etik-väggen.

This beautiful slab is the home of two incredible routes.

1. Ragnarrock 15 m bolted 7-
Ragnar Soleng, 1997
2. Dr. Fatalis 20 m bolted 6+
Ben Johnsen, Ragnar Soleng, 1995
3. Balshoiballetten 35 m bolted 7-
Svein Smelvær, Ben Johnsen, 1995
4. For åpen scene 25 m bolted 7+
Ragnar Soleng, Svein Smelvær, Ben Johnsen, 1995
The wall above and slightly right of Vestre svaet, which defines the end of Fjellveggen. A characterstic diamond shaped roof is found i the middle of the wall.

1. Etisk uppsträck 15 m trad 7-
Jimmy Halvardsson, 2005-06-10
Thin and delicious dihedral.
2. Petras corner 15 m trad 7
Jimmy Halvardsson, 2005-06-15
Climb the thin discontinuous cracks.
3. En bra dag 20 m bolted 7+
Robert Olsen, 2005
1. Varm eplekake med ekte vaniljeis 30m/35 m 14 bolts 6+
Svein Smelvær, Arne Utby, Lena Hansen, 2004
Two variants of the start, the rightmost in the dihedral is 6-.
2. Ytre venstre 20 m 10? bolts 5+
Svein Smelvær, Ben Johnsen, 1995
3. Teknisk prøve 20 m 10? bolts 6+
Svein Smelvær, Ben Johnsen, 1995
With direct start.
4. Senterpartiet 20 m 10? bolts 6+
Svein Smelvær, Ben Johnsen, 1995
5. Ytre høyre 20 m toprope 6-
Svein Smelvær, Ben Johnsen, 1995
6. Tårnruta 20 m 10? bolts 7+
Svein Smelvær, Ben Johnsen, 1995
1. Baktrappa 15 m 4 bolts 5
Svein Smelvær, 1997
2. Rock around the clock 25 m 10? bolts 6+
Ben Johnsen, Ragnar Soleng, Svein Smelvær, 1997
3. Klokkestrengen 25 m 10? bolts 7-
Roy-Inge Hansen, Svein Smelvær, Ben Johnsen, 1997
Gubben, Kalk og Gummi, Rustrødt kjøkken, and Kardemommeveggen.

1. Tetanus Rex 20 m bolted 7
Tony Johannessen, 1996
2. Frontruta 25 m bolted 7
Tony Johannessen, 1996
3. Når lyset kommer 15 m 7 bolts 8-/8
Ø. Andresen, 2005-05-30
Technical, pumpy left-slanting crack. Clean your shoes before you leave ground...
1. Raw F**king Power 20 m bolted 8-
Ø. Andresen, 1999
2. Spørre Torsken 20 m bolted 7/7+
Petter Restorp, 1999
3. Kalk 10 m bolted 6
Ø. Andresen, Restorp, Mikko, 1999
4. Gummi 10 m bolted 6
Ø. Andresen, Restorp, Mikko, 1999
1. Torsketunger med Skippern 20 m bolted 5+
Who,
2. Bettys hundepensjonat 20 m bolted 5
Who,
3. Et, drikk og vær glad 20 m bolted 6-
Who,

This file was last modified 2008-6-19