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Brensholmen

Brensholmen separates itself from the rest of the climbing on Kvaløya in two ways: It has a very short approach, and the rock is pegmatitt, not ordinary granite! The walls lies just by the sea, in a beautiful scenery, on the outside of Kvaløya, which gives you a very long season. Together with the short approach, this has made this area one of most popular areas recently. There a mostly sport routes here, but the number of trad routes are increasing. The climbing is technical, but a few routes are very steep, and range from 15-30 m. Note that there are some loose rock, a helmet is advised.
Take the road towards Ersfjorden, but take left towards Sommarøya about two km before Ersfjorden and follow road 862. Take left after about 12 km and drive through the small village of Sjøtun, about 23 km after you took left there is another crossing in which you turn left. Now you are in Brensholmen. Take right in the third crossing onto Salenvegen, and park the car, carefully avoiding private driveways, by the ferry terminal. The overall distance is about 55 km, and takes about an hour.
Follow the small dirt road below the brown and yellow cabin, be careful not to cross private property, we are facing access problems due to ignorant climbers! Then follow the path marked on the map, passing by the Edlinger-roof, to the walls.
The walls face south-west, and there is sun until late in the evenings. This close to the coast there is usually very little snow, so the area dries early in the season. The crag dries fast.
A 50 m rope, 12 quickdraws, and a standard trad rack if you want test the trad routes.
You need to bring water.
a. Armdreparveggen
Main wall facing the sea.
b. Panoramaveggen
Home to the brilliant classic Store diedret. The face is partially hidden behind Armdreparveggen.
c. Zenith
d. Saueholekløfta
This narrow chast contains the ultra-classic Saueholetaket, a large roof that holds some epic boulder problems from the early 80's.

This file was last modified 2007-5-11