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Blåmann

As described in Mountain Holidays in Norway, 1963, 'Its north wall is a formidable precipice' -- no less. The north face is very spectacular, in the summer you can climb in the sun at night, and it offers a challange worthy a huge grade VI wall. You mainly find steep well protected aid routes that are about 10-12 pitches long. Atlantis has been freed a few times, and Arctandria once recently, but at around 8-/8 (7b+) to 9-/9 it is not an easy outing.

The north face is about 350-400 m high, slightly overhanging and very compact and solid. The dihedrals have sharp cornes and the cracks are thin and often sharp. Despite the very solid nature, there are some loose passages on Atlantis.

The south-pillar has a more gentle angle and provides easy free climbing.

The proper Blåmann!! Steep and intimidating.

1. Ultima Thule 350 m trad A1/A2 topo
Mårten Blixt, Geir Andersen and Mikael Nilsen, July 1995
Time: First ascent took 40 h. calculate around 20. Gear: Portaledge, Some more small stuff, and perhaps some knifeblades. One extra friend in size 3 or 4 can come handy on the last pitch. The route follows the left end of the wall, a few meters further left the wall changes character dramatically.
  1. 55 m, A1: Start by enjoying the finger crack in the left wall of the large left facing dihedral, pass a double roof on the left side and then continue straight up. Take stand in a horizontal crack a few meter below the "Nose".
  2. 30 m, A1: Thin climbing up flaky terrain into the dihedral just right of the Nose, with stand on a small ledge.
  3. 45 m, A1: Travers out right to a good crack, maybe easier done in free. Easy up the crack, pass a ledge and continue up a widening dihedral, stand.
  4. 45 m, A1: Climb large dihedral, pass a roof on your left.
  5. 60 m, A1: Climb the left crack covered wall of the dihedral, up to easy but akward terrain that leads you left to the routes first proper ledge. Enjoy the view.
  6. 45 m, A1: Climb the right leaning crack up to a big roof. Travers out right to a wide crack.
  7. Easy but akward and slippery to the top.
2. Livet under kniven 350 m trad A2 topo
Morten Bjerkås and Joakim G. Eide, July 2001
Time: 1st ascent took three and a half days. Calculate 1-2 days. Gear: Portaledge, 60 m. rope, the normal set of Blåmann gear plus some extra stuff in the small category, a few birdbeaks and copperheads.
  1. 40 m, A2: Begin in black dihedral between Atlantis and Ultima Thule. Look for "Kniven" (the "knife") on the second pitch, you should start in the plumb line right of this. Follow dihedral to a small overhang, travers out left and continue to a new overhang with a flake.
  2. 30 m, A2: Climb left below roof, then a technical section follows into the dihedral right of "Kniven". Climb dihedral up where chimney starts, and swing out to stand. As a variant one can continue up the dihedral without any swing.
  3. 45 m, A2: Continue same dihedral a few meters (A2) before swinging out to the chimney. Climb the chimney up to where a crack appears in the left face of the dihedral. Follow the crack up to a small roof, go right and up good crack.
  4. 50 m, A1: From ledge climb up dihedral up to new ledge with a large rock. Continue slightly left up a tight dihedral, take stand on ledge.
  5. 50 m, A1/A2: Climb steep and tight dihedral up to slab. Follow the rim of the slab up to where an overhanging crack in the dihedral wall begins. Climb crack up to small roof and travers right into a large (wet) dihedral that ends in a large roof. Travers left around the roof in tight cracks, and take poor stand below next small roof.
  6. 40 m, C1: From stand, climb over edge, and continue cracks and dihedrals towards the top.
  7. 30 m, C1: Climb up to large roof below the top, go left and follow the easiest path along the edge towards the top.
3. Ikaros 350 m trad A1/A2 topo
Robert Caspersen (solo), 1994
Time: calculate 1-2 days. Gear: Portaledge, 60 m. rope.
4. Atlantis 400 m trad A1/A2, 8-/8 topo
Sjur Nesheim, Håvard Nesheim and Frode Guldal, June 1980
First free ascent by Per Hustad and Johan Nilsson (8-/8), in July 1990. The two first pitches were free climbed in the early 80'ies by H.-C. Doseth. First winter ascent by Sjur Nesheim and Øystein Cruikschank in 1986. The route follow the main weakness in the wall just left of the top, and goes fairly straight up. Time: 20 h. (fastest ascent: 8h 15m)
  1. 55 m, A1, 7/7+: Start by a block pile/pillar that leads up to a smal overhang. Pass a small ledge and continue up nice layback. Some loose rock.
  2. 55 m, A1/A2, 8: Up layback to a slopy ledge below the the banana shaped overhang. Climb the thin crack system in the left wall. Thin acrobatic climbing.
  3. 40 m, A1, 7/7+: Stamina requiring effort up the steep and long dihedral
  4. 50 m, A1, 6+: Short travers out the bivy ledge, then straight up slightly easier terrain.
  5. 30 m, A1, 8-: Another short travers/jump out on ledge. Then thin hard crack climbing up towards large chimney system.
  6. 30 m, A1/A2, 6+: Wet offwidth climbing up the chimney. Belay on ledge.
  7. 50 m, A1/A2, 7-: From right side of ledge, climb up serie of steep dihedrals.
  8. 30 m, A1, 6+: Continue to the top.
5. Bongo Bar 400 m trad A2/A3 topo
Mårten Blixt, Erik Massih and Thomas Ekefalk, July 1998
Time: 1st ascent took nearly three days, calculate 1-2 days. Gear: Portaledge, 60 m. rope, 4 Copperheads, 4 Knifeblades, 2 LA's and one pecker. The route follows the steep pillar that leads to the top, just left of Arctandria.
  1. 50 m, A2, 1 copperhead, 1 L.A. 1 knifeblade: Begin right of the routes plumb line, exactly where the steep path joins the large ledge below the wall. Climb through a flaky overhang, then head slightly left to a small overhang, travers and then up. Change over to your right via a couple of delicate hook/fri moves to the bottom of a clear left-facing dihedral. Take stand at the top of the dihedral.
  2. 50 m, A3, 1 pecker: "The Diamond pitch". Follow the next dihedral pass the "svarta tårarna" (black tears), up to a dihedral/crack system that leads to the left end of the big roof. 1 m to the right a thin crack leads through the roof. Continue up a dihedral and take stand on a sloping ledge.
  3. 45 m, C1+/5-6: Climb up the thin bow and in to the large open dihedral, continue pass a large double ledge and a flake to a stand on a small ledge about where the dihedral changes to a chimney.
  4. 45 m, C1/7: Climb out right to a vertical crack which leads to the pillar, round the corner. Follow the pillar via a crack system up to sloping ledge.
  5. 60 m, C1+/7-: Follow right leaning crack system up to a small ledge below a slab. Travers left on an expanding flake at the top of the slab (better in free). Continue up along nice cracks to a double ledge and a good stand.
  6. 50 m, 5+: Up the steep crack above the ledge, climb left in to a big steep dihedral. Over a ledge and through a gentle dihedral up to a giant ledge (stand) 10 m scrambling to the top.
6. Disko 2000 400 m trad A2+ topo
Mårten Blixt and Bjørn Krane, February 2000
Time: 1st ascent took five days. However, the winter conditions steals time, and we only climbed during the few hours of daylight. 2 days is a better estimate for summer. Gear: Portaledge, 60 m. rope, 10-20 Copperheads, 6 Knifeblades, 6 LA's and 6 U-bolts, a few rurps and beaks, several hooks (bat hook to very large), 2 each of cams from #00 Metolius to #4 Camelot, 2 set of RP's. (winter: 2 spectre).
  1. 40 m, A1: The start (and the two first pitches) is shared with Arctandria. Look for a large dihedral, vertically aligned with the top, which reaches an obvious roof after about 90m. That beautiful dihedral is the first two pitches, and there are few possibilities of getting off-route here. Go for the ledge.
  2. 50 m, A2, 2-5 copperheads, many #1-#2 friends: From the ledge, follow that small left-facing dihedral 3m, and then take a step right into the main dihedral. What now follows is a sustained and absolutely marvelous pitch up to the large obvious roof above. At the roof, there are 2 bolts, and Arctandria takes stand there, however, you should continue on the traverse to the left under the roof (Arctandria continues right of the roof), maybe you need to back-clean to have enough friends for the travers (A1). Take stand at the leftmost corner of the roof
  3. 40 m, A2+, 5 copperheads, 4 bird-beaks/rurps, knifeblades, hooks and General Snus (Made in Sweden, only for addict's): This is the crux-pitch of the route. Follow the "crack to seam to vague feature"-thing which brings you towards left and into the bottom of a left-faced dihedral. Go towards the roof, just below it the dihedral starts to fade away and its time for you to make a 3m pendulum to the left into the neighboring crack, bring a #2 Camelot on the swing. Again, start climbing towards the roof, but traverse left where the crack disappears, towards the leftmost corner of the roof. Now a section of steep climbing on dice placements follows through the series of small overhangs. We added 2 drilled 8mm bolts on this section. A thin seam takes you a bit rightwards again, to the belay stance (one 8mm and one 10mm bolt) a few meters short of the next roof.
  4. 40 m, A1: Via a bathook you enter the small dihedral which is the door to the Kalk og Gummi-roof. Frightening at distance, the climbing proves to be easy through the roof. Where a crack provides plenty of possible placements. Next a right-faced dihedral brings you to a small roof which you traverse towards the right under, up and into a well protected maze of cracks and small overlaps that ends up in a clean crack. Make a stand where the crack ends and you obviously have to change to the crack left of you, use both to build the belay.
  5. 35 m, A2: Climb up the dihedral/slot and continue in easy terrain through two right-faced short dihedrals. The last ends in a small roof, which you pass and enter a short crux section involving a hook and a copperhead before you enter a discontinuous shallow crack. After a few meters it gets better, but it soon fades away in the steep wall ahead of you, therefore you must make a pendulum (2m) to the dihedral right of you. Up that dihedral to where it ends in a roof, there you go right to a horizontal crack that cuts an obvious pillar. Build a belay, medium-sized U-bolts are useful. We placed a 8mm bolt to hang our portaledge from here.
  6. 50 m, A1: Cross the pillar and into the right-faced dihedral, straightforward climbing up to a small ledge, continue through the small dihedral and crack up to a "block" upon which you find a small ledge in the bottom of a larger dihedral. Belay.
  7. 50 m, A1: The dihedral starts out steep, but soon you should enter the crack that splits the right wall, and up to a large ledge (difficult to pass without the spectre's in wintertime). Now a sloping dihedral leads you up a very steep short section, split by a good crack. Climb the following dihedral up to the small roof and make a stand.
  8. 55 m, A1: Now you are partially forced into the steep chimney, summertime this might be easier to climb in free, so be prepared for a tight exit. Atop of the chimney a horizontal crack takes you right to a sloping ledge. From here you just follow the obvious line to the top. We drifted a bit towards the left, but maybe you can reach the Steinman at the top directly.
7. Arctandria 400 m trad A2+, 9-/9 topo
Sjur Nesheim, Håvard Nesheim and Finn Dæhli, May 1981
First free ascent by Didier Berthod and Giovanni Quinci, August 2005. This is a classic aid route -- one of the hardest in Norway in its time. The second pitch is a rare gem of solid continuous climbing, the best there is. Route begins with the very obvious open dihedral nearly straight down under the top, it then traverses right in two consequent large roofs. The route then goes slightly right to gain less steep terrain the last pitches. Time: 2-3 days. This is a tricky route, and people have drilled protection here, please do not continue this tradition. Bring copperheads, hooks and knifeblades.
  1. 45 m, A1/A2, 8: Start up slightly flaky terrain, with a crux just before reaching a small roof. Go left of the roof, and up a beautiful layback to a stand on a fairly good ledge. Some old bolts on the belay.
  2. 40 m, A2+, 9-/9: Up the very obvious and extremely attractive open dihedral. Dead solid but sparse with protection. Stand just right of first large roof.
  3. 30 m, A1, 8/8+: Short pitch up to the huge roof, Tromsøflaket.
  4. 20 m, A1, 9-: Travers right under the roof.
  5. 15 m, A1, 8-: Short pitch up to the next large roof, which is kind of an inverted staircase.
  6. 25 m, A2, 8+: Go right of inverted staircase up to the beginning of a large dihedral.
  7. 50 m, A1/A2, 8: Climb large dihedral.
  8. 25 m, A1/A2, 7+:
  9. 25 m, A1/A2, 7-:
  10. 50 m, A1/A2, 7: Long dihedral with roof at the top.
  11. around 100 m, easy:
8. Pishtaco 350 m trad A1/A2 topo
Bjarte Bø and Anne Grete Nebell, July 1998
Time: 1st ascent took 16 h. after two pitches were fixed. Gear: 60 m. rope, one knifeblade was placed during the 1st ascent, many small nuts are needed, 2 #4 Camalots are advisabel to bring (and a #6 LA perhaps).
The south-pillar of Blåmann gives an about 300 m long easy route of a both airy and beginner-friendly character. The rock is solid and the potential for gear is very good.

1. m topo

This file was last modified 2008-6-19