Frequently Asked Questions
- What rack do I need for the sport climbing?
- On most places, a 50m rope and about 10-12 quickdraws is enough, but
at Gullknausen a few more quickdraws and a 60m rope will help.
- What trad rack should I bring to Hollenderan?
- For most people, on most routes, the following rack is recommended:
- 2 50m (or 60m) half ropes.
- About 15 nuts, size 1 to 9, plus one or two smaller ones. Double up in
the mid-range sizes.
- About 8 friends, size 0.5 to 3 in camalots, with dublets in the mid-range.
- About 8 to 10 quickdraws.
- 5 extra carabiners.
- 4 60cm slings and 2 120cm slings.
- A cordalette.
- A small "rescue set" consisting of a 2-3m rope, an extra carabiner with a
"talje", and at least 2 prusiks.
Notice that this selection does not fit everbody nor every route. For
Mannen med ljåen, bring 1 or two extra size 3 camalots, and
for Thanatos and Halvmånerisset bring some extra
hand sized friends.
- What trad/aid rack should I bring to Blåmann?
-
- Two set of Rocks (1-6)
- Two set of friends (0-1/2, 1-3)
- Friends # 3 1/2 and 4
- RP's (2-5)
- 14 quickdraws
- A small selection of knifeblades, U-bolts and LA's
- Hooks (1 Talon, 1 big Pika (Fish for the strong),
and two ordinary (Petzl or BD))
- How do I contribute with new routes?
- First of all, contact some of the local climbers (try
TKK, or
me), to hear if
it is advisable. Simply because the probability that it has
been climbed earlier is very large, but also because the
area you consider may be under certain restrictions (e.g. birds,
bad approach, etc...). Do not place bolts unless you are
very very sure that it is allowed.
- What does trad mean?
- Trad actually means traditional, which in the
climbing world means that the protection is placed by hand while
climbing, using nuts, friends and miscellaneous other old-school
tools.